Saturday, September 6, 2014

[Temple Time]

Take me to CAMBODIA beautiful plane!
Started the day off early with a flight out of Hanoi, Vietnam, and a short layover in Laos before landing in Siem Reap! We arrive at the airport and after completing the relatively smooth visa process ($20 USD) and the first thing I do while we are loading our bags into the Tuk Tuk (motorcycle taxi) is stand in a pile of fire ants. Ouch. I pull them off my foot and scrabble into the Tuk Tuk with a smile. How could I be upset… I’m in CAMBODIA! We spent the first night at a nice, quiet place to relax from the hectic streets of Vietnam before heading to our hostel the next morning.
Our swimming pool at Lotus Lodge

The following day we spent shopping and exploring the city of Siem Reap. I took full advantage of the cheap full body and foot massages throughout town and weaved through the grid of the indoor market. Fresh coconuts were cheap and the food selection was great. We ended the day with Mexican food, margaritas (for Kendra and Sarah), and a delicious fresh coconut for me!

Goodies at the indoor market
The next three days were packed with temple fun! Day 1: English speaking tour guide and private Tuk Tuk for the sunrise at Ankor Wat, and a trip around Ankor Thom, Bayon, and Ta Prohm. These temples are very unique for being built as Hindu temples then converted to Buddhist temples. Ankor Wat is one of the World Heritage sites and the old capitol of Cambodia until it was moved to Phnom Penh and forgotten about/ neglected. Ankor Thom is an old walled city with the Bayon Temple in the center. Ta Prohm was featured in Tomb Raider (with Angelina Jolie) and is famous for the large trees growing in and around the temple. Day 2: we rented mountain bikes and did our own little tour. Day 3: Kendra and Sarah got a Tuk Tuk and went to the temples while I opted to rent a mountain bike for a second day. This time I tried out some of the trails without a map and found some villages within the Ankor Temples. You could tell the trails hadn’t been used that day because of the amount of spider webs I drove into. On the back trails I also saw restoration work being done on one of the temples in Ankor Thom and came upon a few less touristy temples that I had all to myself. Beautiful. Outside of Ankor Wat I stopped for lunch and fell in love with Khmer Curry (coconut based). Best I’ve had in country with a side of coconut to bring my electrolytes up (that’s my excuse anyways for having so many coconuts)! I would recommend skipping the tour guide unless you like to be told things that you could just as easily read in a book or print out online. VERY highly recommend renting a mountain bike. If you’re adventurous you can roam around by yourself with a basic map or you can sign up for a mountain bike trip as well. $5 for the day to rent a decent mountain bike.
Early morning to watch this marvel appear in front of a beautiful backdrop

Every minute reveals a new look 
When the sun went down we would head into Siem Reap for the entertainment on Pub Street. We heard a great cover band at a very unique restaurant. The Triangle Bar is shaped like a triangle and sandwiched in between two bigger roads. I found my coconut shake stand near the ‘funky’ food stand. This food stand had cooked grasshoppers, beetles, snakes, crab, and spiders! The first day we tried the snake the second day we tried the spider. Kendra was the brave one and tried the body of the spider while Sarah and I picked at the legs. The skin of the snake reminded me of chicken and the spider legs were… not too bad. Disgusted yet? Since I’ve had grasshopper in Uganda the only thing I haven’t tried yet was the beetle. Maybe someday. The look on peoples’ faces when they walked by was hilarious and some would even ask ‘is it okay if we watch?’ some even wanted to take pictures of some crazy girls easting some crazy things. We always offered to let them try but they always refused with a disgusted or timid face. When the adventurous eating was finished we would pop across the street to the magic ice cream stand with ice cream ‘cones’ shaped like snorkels/ candy canes! The ice cream was delicious and the novelty of the idea made it fun to eat as well!

Khmer Curry! My FAVORITE!
spider, grasshopper, water beetle, snake, crab...
Look at this BEAST!
Bazookas! Oh boy... what did I get myself into. (Phnom Penh)
After four nights in Siem Reap we took a 6 hour bus down to the capitol of Phnom Penh. We only had one full day here so we went to visit the Choeung Ek killing field and genocide museum. Are you ready for a simplified history lesson? It’s dark so take a deep breath before we begin... Here we go…

Today... I am a tourist. 
Cambodia was fighting. The Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, took over and was in power for 3 ½ years between 1975 - 1979. Within 48 hours everything was closed and everyone was forced to leave. Cities were completely abandoned and Cambodians were forced into labor, 12+ hours day and night. Pol Pot called this year 0. 3 years 8 months and 28 days of hell in Cambodia began. All educated individuals were thought to be potential enemies. If you were educated, wore glasses, had soft hands (meaning you didn’t labor), or anything else leading to the idea that you may be a potential threat you were in trouble. They were either arrested, tortured, made to confess their ‘crimes’, killed, or all of the above. Monks, foreigners, other distinguished individuals, even military leaders in the Khmer Rouge were not exempt from these cruelties.  One of the main prisons in Phnom Penh was converted from a high school and now remains as a museum covered with faces of the past. Everyone who entered the prison was photographed and those photos now hang in the museum. A chilling experience. Pol Pot had complete power.  

3,000,000 out of the total population of 8,000,000 in Cambodia at the time were murdered. There were over 300 killing fields throughout Cambodia at the time. Choeung Ek was the largest. After being held in prison or laboring in the fields groups would be blindfolded, handcuffed, put in a truck, and told they were getting re-located or even promised a house. They were being brought to the killing fields. Some pits were discovered with over 400 bodies. One grave in particular was discovered with over 200+ headless Khmer soldiers. Khmer soldiers were usually recruited teenagers who joined in fear. Do or die.

Every few months during the rainy season bone fragments and clothing are still washed up from the earth. A stupa was erected with 12 levels containing over 9,900+ skulls and other remains as a monument for the souls lost in the genocide. Trials for the genocide finally began in 2007 and most of the individuals responsible got to live a comfortable life even with all of the pain they put their fellow Cambodians through. Pol Pot lived to the age of 73 while some of his youngest victims never had a chance to live past the age of 5.
Memorial stupa at the Choeung Ek Killing Fields

The Cambodian genocide was said the set back the country SIXTY YEARS! I could only imagine what Cambodia would look like now if the past could be erased.

I really enjoyed my time in Cambodia. It was fun and educational. The people are friendly, food is delicious, country side is beautiful… Siem Reap reminded me of a more lively Pokhara and I would like to experience both of them during the tourist season to see how booming they really are! One week was not enough time but at least I got a small taste and now I want more.


hidden gems
I hope I make it back there someday… I may be in love with Ankor.  For now I'll have to visit in my dreams :) sweet. sweet. temple loving dreams.



If you don't take your time to look around you may miss out

I loved when someone shouted "RAINBOW!"
Look where I'm at!
Ta Prohm AKA Tomb Raider Temple

1 comment: